Alexei Korova, Grey Tailoring founder and CEO
What advice can you give our readers about choosing a suit?
First of all, it is important to know what you need the suit for. The more exclusive and delicate the fabric, the more rest it needs. That is why, if you need an everyday suit, your best fabrics will have a twist of no higher than Super 130. For special occasions you can consider more delicate fabrics with a twist of Super 150, Super 170 or higher. Our Grey Tailoring boutique and model house presents one of the largest collections of fabrics in Moscow: Loro Piana, Zegna, Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Ariston, Caccioppoli, Carnet, VBC, and many others.
Grey Tailoring probably has the best choice of fabrics in Moscow
Business people travel a lot. What suit would be appropriate for long flights?
I would recommend special fabrics Traveller and Loro Piana Zelander High Tenacity for travelling and long flights, such as MoscowVladivostok; they hardly wrinkle at all and youll look as neat as a new pin. These fabrics are also waterproof. You will not get wet even if you are caught in the rain.
How did you come by the idea of starting a Neapolitan model house in Moscow?
The idea grew out of our own need. We have a consulting project in Moscow and we always need to look just right. Having tried several dozen different tailors and factories, we realised that we had to go to Naples for a perfect suit. We met Enrico Manzo and his Sartoria Principe dEleganza at Pitti Uomo. We now present the Principe dEleganza brand in Moscow exclusively. Manzo is one of the most famous tailors in Naples. He makes bespoke suits for the founders and owners of Loro Piana and Zegna. Production is headed by Antonella De Rosa who worked for Kiton and Cesare Attolini for over 20 years. There are 32 tailors at the factory and each suit is cut out by hand. This allows taking into account all the nuances of the figure so that each suit really does fit perfectly, as well as fulfilling the most unusual wishes of the clients.
A hand-tailored suit will highlight your status, making a favourable impression
How does a Neapolitan suit differ from, lets say, an English one?
An English suit is more like a uniform; actually its cut is more structured and rigid it originated with a military uniform. The Neapolitan suit, on the other hand, is as light as possible with a natural or soft shoulder line. The suit follows natural body contours; it is more like a second skin. You can simply forget that you are wearing a suit. It is also of no small importance that Italian fabrics are more delicate, soft, light and smooth to the touch.
Can you tell an expensive custom-made suit by some sort of details?
First of all, its the perfect fit. Secondly, what makes each suit unique is hand-made detailing. Edging is done by hand with minute, fine stitches; all buttonholes are also hand-made. A hand-cut wide lapel that is proportionate to the figure right away gives you a hint that the suit is custom- made. Another thing is that such a suit lets you use unusual buttons made of mother-of-pearl, horn or walnut.
A personal monogram can be added to a suit or a shirt at a clients request.
Generally, at the first meeting appearance and attention to detail are crucially important. You can say the right things, but you will not be perceived right if you are not dressed appropriately or the suit does not match your status or the event. I can say by my own experience that a perfectly fitting suit adds confidence in negotiations and helps you conduct them more successfully.
I will take this opportunity to invite all readers and EEF guests to visit us at the Grey Tailoring boutique and model house at the Crocus City Mall in Moscow for coffee or limoncello.
We also offer call-out service, where one of our master tailors will come with a selection of fabrics to your home or office in any city in Russia, or even another country, to take your suit order.
I wish you a successful Forum!